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on tubeless and cx

With all this local cx talk  and my recent conversation with Ryan and MOD I decided to talk a bit more about tubeless conversions and how a poor schmuck like me or you can make that work for yourself . This is overall experience I had thus far setting up my wheel/tires tubeless.

My quest for tubeless started with Dirty Kanza preparation. I heard stories of flats, shredded tires and just bad environment. I figure that majority of the flats besides cuts are actually cause by pinch flats after you change one tube. I believe it’s just hard to get the pressure high enough when you are in the moment, resulting in 40 psi range which might  be okay for normal gravel but is not suited for Flint Hills. This made me  think about how to make this not happen to me.

Interwebs and MG were the key here.  SO here is the deal you  can setup most of the tires tubeless with following items:

  • Gorilla Tape or Stans Tape (one is 10$ a roll the other one is a bit more decide)
  • Valve Cores ( i have used both Bonty and Stans/ you can also you the old valves from old tubes as long as you can take out the valves)
  • Tubeless Juice (I use ghetto sealant / but you can use any sealant of your choice)

The Process is the same regardless. You need to measure your current rim strip width and cut the gorilla tape about 1-2 mm wider than existing setup.  As far as lenght of tape is concerned. Minimum of tape  should be overlapping by about five spoke wholes. That way you can overlap the valve hole by at least 2-3 spoke wholes. For road application I would recommend at least two wraps around the wheel. The road pressures is a lot higher and you might need that extra layer.

* Nifty trick. Standard door height plus  about 6inches is perfect length for one wrap of 700c wheel.

Process of setup

  • Remove current rim strip
  • Clean the channel if dirty
  • Cut the tape to width and length desired
  • Cut a “X” over the valve hole and insert the valve core
  • Mount a Tire
  • Apply sealant of your choice  either through opening or by taking the valve core out.
  • Follow the same directions as airing up MTB tubeless

About Beads and “tubeless” tires.

All tires have beads, that’s obvious ,right? The difference it the size of the  bead and how it interfaces with the rim. In practices, setting up non-tubeless tires on non-tubeless rim occurs when you get latex “bead” setup on the place where both of these items meet.

From my experience it’s impossible to setup non-tubeless road tire on any rim with out a tube.  The pressure is too much and the bead is not strong enough.  Conversely it’s almost impossible to take tubeless road tires of rim (that is a lot of elbow grease)

Cx and tubeless

The problem with cx tires and tubeless is the burping as you are running low psi,high channel and smaller bead than that of mtb tires. I theorize that building up a center channel would prevent burps. This is yet to be tested… that’s what cx practices are for 😀

Thus far I have setup the following

So that is that. I don’t have money for dedicated tubular wheel set. Hence the long post…  Thus far tubeless has worked great on gravel/road application. CX be tested in couple of weeks after the start of the cx practices…

 

2 comments to on tubeless and cx

  • RadRenner

    Rafal,

    Do you think I could try some tubles CX tires on my Kyserium wheelset (i.e. – non- UST rim bead)? The rim bed is w/o holes, so would I need just get the tubeless valve, some sealant, and a tubeless CX tire (i.e. – no rim tape)? Any recommendations for a (light) general-conditions, tubeless CX tire?

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